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29 May 2024 | |
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A few years ago Johnny Harrison WPS’57 mentioned that he was assisting his son Sam in setting up a new restaurant and that I must come and try it. Sam’s Riverside opened in November 2019 and, of course, we all know what happened in early 2020! The fact that a new opening got through the Covid crisis indicates just how good Sam’s really is, and since then the restaurant has established itself as one of the top foodie destinations in West London. So, on a not-so-sunny day in July, Anna and I took up Johnny's invitation.
Sam’s Riverside can be found close to Hammersmith Bridge. Sadly, the great British weather deciding not to play ball meant we had to reject the outside terrace, but instead we had a window seat admiring the fantastic views down the Thames. Whilst being entertained by Johnny’s globe-trotting life stories from ‘60s Adman, to Hollywood PR, to London Oil Exec, we tucked into some rather special cuisine.
Sam’s focuses on the very best seasonal produce from all around the UK, particularly from small artisan suppliers, and so the array of tempting dishes made decision-making difficult. To kick things off Anna and I chose to share a couple of ‘small plates’; Salt Fish Croquettes with Lobster Mayo and Devon Crab Toasts with the added bonus of some Parmesan Churro as a complimentary amuse bouche – all absolutely delicious. Johnny picked one of his favourite dishes, Beetroot & Buttermilk Gazpacho with Dill, Cucumber and a Hen’s Eggs which was not only a gorgeous colour but was the most wonderfully thick consistency of unctiousness.
On to the mains; Johnny and Anna both chose the Twice-Baked Lincolnshire Poacher & Asparagus Souffle, the perfect balance of strong cheese and lightly whipped eggs which came with a Bitter Leaf Salad. Being partial to a good salad I went for the Hot Smoked Salmon with Pickled Fennel & Courgette, Yoghurt & Almonds which raised things to a whole new level in the salad stakes – I loved every mouthful.
Puddings were where we reached new heights! The man Sam himself, who came over for a quick chat, recommended the Strawberry & Mint Souffle with Clotted Cream Ice Cream which not only looked like perfection, but each spoonful a light fluffy heaven which I found difficult to share! Johnny’s Amalfi Lemon Sorbet was as refreshing as it sounded and Anna classed her Buttermilk Panacotta with Passionfruit & Mango Compote & Coconut Sorbet as ‘sublime’.
A couple of glasses of wine, all handpicked by Sam from wineries he has personal friendships with, washed everything down very nicely. The bill came to £150 + service for 3, exceptionally good value for the 1st class lunch we so enjoyed.
As well as a private room for 18, the site also houses Sam’s Larder, opened during lockdown, which stocks delicacies from the restaurant’s favourite suppliers, and the latest addition to the family, a café Sam’s Kitchen, serving breakfast, brunch and lunch.
Sam’s Riverside may be slightly off the beaten track, but it is so well worth the trip.
www.samsriverside.co.uk